1941 Cadet restoration, need some help with parts

Submitted by gregv on Fri, 05/08/2015 - 13:55

Hi all

 

helping out a friend with his dad's '41 Cadet; it's complete but pretty beat up. So far need new cones and an axle for the Falcon front hub, plus at least a new lower crown race for the headset if not a completely new headset. Does anything interchange with more common American bikes? I compared the headset to a common 1" OPC/BMX headset I have and the races and bearing cups are totally different.

 

also, how does the bottom bracket come apart? Is the side opposite the chainring reverse thread?

 

Anyways any assistance most appreciated!

 

cheers

 

greg v

6 Comments

Submitted by T-Mar on Fri, 05/08/2015 - 16:18.

The 1941 Cadet' were spec'd with Bayliss-Wiley Unit bottom bracket.. The side opposite the chainrings should be a right had thread. The B-W Units used a metal sleeve that slid in the bottom bracket shell of the frame and the cups screwed into the shell.

Submitted by locomotion on Sat, 05/09/2015 - 07:33.

leave your email here, i have the parts you need for your Falcon hub

seems like the PM on the site doesn't work

Submitted by gregv on Sat, 05/09/2015 - 12:57.

Thanks for the info T-Mar! Is it a standard bike tool that is required for the bb rings?

 

locomotion that sounds great! My e-mail is gregventuri@hotmail.com

 

thanks guys

 

cheers

 

gv

Submitted by T-Mar on Sat, 05/09/2015 - 19:59.

The problem with the B-W units is that when you try to take them apart, the complete unit often tends to spin in the frame. Consequently, its not unusual to have to use tools on both cups at the same time. The B-W lockrings typically have 2 or 4 notchs, so a standard lockring C-spanner should work but I prefer something more positive like VAR lockring pliers. A standard, adjustable pin spanner should work  on the adjustable/non-drive side cup once the lockring is removed. I don't recall what the distance is across the flats of the fixed/drive side cup and currently don't have a sample in my collection but it should be simple enough to measure. Alternately, if you have a vice with good, square edged jaws, you should be able to clamp the fixed/drive side cup in the vice while somebody supports the frame and another person removes the lockring and adjustable/non-drive side cup. Given the age and probability of corrosion in the threads, I'd advise a liberal dose of penetrating oil before attempting the job. Good luck!

Submitted by gregv on Sun, 05/10/2015 - 13:28.

great, thanks again for all the info!

 

Turns out the stem is badly cracked, going to be needing one of those as well... I did find a partial used headset in the big bin at the local bike shop, and the top race was an almost exact match;' even used the same Hartford 49 bearings. So think the headset might be ok, although will need to source a better crown race.

 

cheers

 

greg v.

Submitted by T-Mar on Mon, 05/11/2015 - 11:54.

I don't think that you are going to have much luck finding a modern headset that is compatible. The modern headset standards use crown race seat diameters that are larger than CCM and  cup seat diameters that are smaller (though BMX style cups will typically be too large). However, since most modern headsets will be a sloppy fit on a CCM of this vintage, there is laways the option of using shims to make the crown race and cups fit properly.