This Flyte looks as if it has spent some time outside. Given that it is a rare bike, but for anyone wanting to restore it, it could end up being only a frame and fork. The chrome looks poor on all chrome plated parts. The rims are probably rusted on the inner tube side. The wheels would need to be respoked. The crank may not come apart easily and may have ruined crank arms and/or a bad axle. The fenders may or may not be salvagable and may require stripping, filling, priming and repainting. The handlebar stem may not come out of the fork header tube easily, or at all, in which case it would have to be cut and a new header tube would have to be brazed on to the fork. In addition, expensive rechroming of the fork would be required, as well as a complete repaint. Was this bike really such a bargain?
Submitted by locomotion on Wed, 08/05/2015 - 20:14.
You always amaze me how pessimistic you are John!!! You can tell all that from that picture?
I would never restore that bike, i would clean it up, polish the chrome and respoke it, i would treat the surface rust and clear it, Why would you ever paint an original paint Flyte???
takes only 2 hours to spoke and true 2 wheels, not a very big job to do yourself, and we all have extra spokes waiting to be used
who cares if the rims are a bit rusted on the inside, most are and I am positive all the parts will come off easily if you have the right technique and tools
all it takes is a bench grinder with a wire wheel and a polishing wheel and some elbow grease for the rust, maybe a 2 day job at most if you have some talent
how much do you think a Flyte frame and fork sell for? i am curious to know.
Submitted by simonkarl on Wed, 08/05/2015 - 21:17.
I'm with locomotion on this one, that's what it's all about. Spending the time on the bike, there's nothing more relaxing and calming then working on 60 plus year old bike and making it ridable again, that feeling you get when all your hard work has paid off and you ride it for the first time. It's a Labour of love for some as well as a hobby. I can't count all hours I've put into bikes I don't care it's just fun. Personally I've never had a problem removing any CCM bicycle part no matter what condition just quality stuff.
To each his own. I speak from experience. I have had many CCM's that would not come apart with the "right technique". I have replaced at least 4 header tubes on forks when no amount of WD40, transmission fluid and lacquer thinner, heat, twisting, or jacking would remove the handlebar stem. I have also had triplex crank arms that would not come off. When you clean up those old rims, make sure you do not end up with rust holes ( the Dunlop chrome 28 X 1 3/4 rims are not as thick as some other westwood rims ). Of the 3 Flytes that I have, I have not paid any more than $500 for a complete bike, all of which were in better shape than the one offered on Kijiji. However, these were purchased several years ago before the Flyte became as popular as it is now.
Honestly, I admire your philosophy. Hope in the face of frustration. I also have several old weathered CCM bicycles that I just fixed the wheels on and regreased. Otherwise, they were left as they were.
Submitted by Wayne.Gillies on Thu, 08/06/2015 - 13:47.
WRT methods of cleaning and difficulties in removing stuck things, I'll provide some insight into my basic methods.
A couple of products I use are Gibbs penetrant and Oxalic acid bath for frames, wheel, etc; especially effective on chrome wheels.
OXALIC acid - I have a childs 7' swimming pool set up and have put what appears to be completely rusted frames , fenders, etc and after a period of time, depending on the strength of the mixture, the chemical reaction will remove oxidization from the frame, etc and if paint remains, it will show through. This Flyte would be a prime candidate..without having to do any rubbing, grinding, etc. After letting the parts spend an appropriate time in the solution, take them out, wash down with soap and water, dry, then re-immerse on the oxalic solution to prevent "flash rust" , let dry and apply Gibbs, wax, polish, etc
Oxalic acid is the active ingredient in deck wash, and can be neutralized with baking soda. It can also be disposed of without neutralizing. I buy it in 2 kilo tubs, in granular form; it can be acquired in most commercial cleaning supply outfits. Used in proper concentrations, it works miracles
Gibbs Brand is a mega penetrant, an ultra lubricant, a corrosion inhibitor, and awater repellant. It's also one of the most amazing products that I have ever used. Gibbs is thinner than water, therefore penetrates much better than most of the other products. See fol info
Gibbs must be ordered through reps, Indeed there is a rep in BC who will provide 12 cans ,free shipping, for $160.00. It actually removes the rust from the chrome and WILL NOT attack the paint ..see fol pix of a set of Fltye rims..before & after.
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-autres-velo/granby/ccm-flyte-1937-rare/1091197756?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
Hi, Sadly the Flyte sold almost immediately. The seller also has a CCM Redbird, and picks up bikes from time to time.
--David Webb
yeah, he only wants $2000 for the CCM Red Bird that has been repainted, but he says it has wood rims!!!! yeah
What was the asking price in the ad for the Flyte?
One thousand dollars CDN
whoever bought that 1940 CCM Flyte for $1000 is a lucky cat,
original paint and original fenders, even the chrome wheels with the red center lines are there
I wonder why the middle part of the rear fender is painted blue???
can even see some original decals!!1
Not me anyway Locomotion...The most part of people think that they have a fortune in their hand, but that's not the case !...this is my own opinion.
not you anyways what???
This Flyte looks as if it has spent some time outside. Given that it is a rare bike, but for anyone wanting to restore it, it could end up being only a frame and fork. The chrome looks poor on all chrome plated parts. The rims are probably rusted on the inner tube side. The wheels would need to be respoked. The crank may not come apart easily and may have ruined crank arms and/or a bad axle. The fenders may or may not be salvagable and may require stripping, filling, priming and repainting. The handlebar stem may not come out of the fork header tube easily, or at all, in which case it would have to be cut and a new header tube would have to be brazed on to the fork. In addition, expensive rechroming of the fork would be required, as well as a complete repaint. Was this bike really such a bargain?
John Williamson
You always amaze me how pessimistic you are John!!! You can tell all that from that picture?
I would never restore that bike, i would clean it up, polish the chrome and respoke it, i would treat the surface rust and clear it, Why would you ever paint an original paint Flyte???
takes only 2 hours to spoke and true 2 wheels, not a very big job to do yourself, and we all have extra spokes waiting to be used
who cares if the rims are a bit rusted on the inside, most are and I am positive all the parts will come off easily if you have the right technique and tools
all it takes is a bench grinder with a wire wheel and a polishing wheel and some elbow grease for the rust, maybe a 2 day job at most if you have some talent
how much do you think a Flyte frame and fork sell for? i am curious to know.
I'm with locomotion on this one, that's what it's all about. Spending the time on the bike, there's nothing more relaxing and calming then working on 60 plus year old bike and making it ridable again, that feeling you get when all your hard work has paid off and you ride it for the first time. It's a Labour of love for some as well as a hobby. I can't count all hours I've put into bikes I don't care it's just fun. Personally I've never had a problem removing any CCM bicycle part no matter what condition just quality stuff.
To each his own. I speak from experience. I have had many CCM's that would not come apart with the "right technique". I have replaced at least 4 header tubes on forks when no amount of WD40, transmission fluid and lacquer thinner, heat, twisting, or jacking would remove the handlebar stem. I have also had triplex crank arms that would not come off. When you clean up those old rims, make sure you do not end up with rust holes ( the Dunlop chrome 28 X 1 3/4 rims are not as thick as some other westwood rims ). Of the 3 Flytes that I have, I have not paid any more than $500 for a complete bike, all of which were in better shape than the one offered on Kijiji. However, these were purchased several years ago before the Flyte became as popular as it is now.
John Williamson
I like your comment SimonKarl, as it is exactly the same for me
it's my therapy, the harder to come apart sometimes the prouder I am
Honestly, I admire your philosophy. Hope in the face of frustration. I also have several old weathered CCM bicycles that I just fixed the wheels on and regreased. Otherwise, they were left as they were.
John Williamson
WRT methods of cleaning and difficulties in removing stuck things, I'll provide some insight into my basic methods.
A couple of products I use are Gibbs penetrant and Oxalic acid bath for frames, wheel, etc; especially effective on chrome wheels.
OXALIC acid - I have a childs 7' swimming pool set up and have put what appears to be completely rusted frames , fenders, etc and after a period of time, depending on the strength of the mixture, the chemical reaction will remove oxidization from the frame, etc and if paint remains, it will show through. This Flyte would be a prime candidate..without having to do any rubbing, grinding, etc. After letting the parts spend an appropriate time in the solution, take them out, wash down with soap and water, dry, then re-immerse on the oxalic solution to prevent "flash rust" , let dry and apply Gibbs, wax, polish, etc
Oxalic acid is the active ingredient in deck wash, and can be neutralized with baking soda. It can also be disposed of without neutralizing. I buy it in 2 kilo tubs, in granular form; it can be acquired in most commercial cleaning supply outfits. Used in proper concentrations, it works miracles
Gibbs Brand is a mega penetrant, an ultra lubricant, a corrosion inhibitor, and awater repellant. It's also one of the most amazing products that I have ever used. Gibbs is thinner than water, therefore penetrates much better than most of the other products. See fol info
http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/
Gibbs must be ordered through reps, Indeed there is a rep in BC who will provide 12 cans ,free shipping, for $160.00. It actually removes the rust from the chrome and WILL NOT attack the paint ..see fol pix of a set of Fltye rims..before & after.
I could not load the pics because my format is too large. I will send them to John so he can work his magic.
As well, the last sentence if the final para should be the last sentence of para 3 Oxalic acid
From Wayne: