Submitted by FreeLander on Sat, 04/01/2017 - 12:59
Hi,
Has anyone drilled a CCM front form to install a calliper brake? I want to make a path racer. Originally I was thinking three speed but want two brakes. It will be single speed coaster with a front brake if possible. Thoughts?
Submitted by FreeLander on Sun, 04/02/2017 - 07:53.
Thanks. The swap out fork option sounds reasonable. The wheels are 26 x 1/3" (590). This would mean finding a similar sized fork. Another 590 or maybe even a modem 26". I put a 26" (559) wheel on just to see the difference and there was only about an inch difference (more) fork clearance. Would use 559 on rear as well.
It depends on the fork crown i guess. Sheldon Brown has info regarding drilling for calipers. Seems pretty straight forward. I would think that if you put a smaller wheel on the caliper may not reach the rim
Installing a different fork, especially one intended for a different wheel size would almost certainly affect the handling. This could turn out to be advantegeous and adverse, depending on the fork and the handling qualities you prefer. As noted, with a smaller wheel, there may also be a brake reach issue. Plus, there is a good chance that you'll have to cut the fork's steerer tube to length and possibly rethread it, to make it fit the current frame and headset. The crown race seat may be a different diameter and incompatible with the CCM headset. Finally, the colour probably won't match.
All things taken into account, drilling the crown of the current fork is likely the simplest solution. Whether I'd be prepared to do this would all depend on the model and condition of the project bicycle.
Regardless, before I started, I'd be taking my proposed wheel and fork combination and measuring the distance from the centre of the rim sidewall, to the location of the proposed brake mounting hole. This is your brake reach and once you know that, you can determine if it is compatible with your proposed brake caliper. Make sure you do this for the rear brake too!
Persoanlly, I'd keep things 26"x 1-3/8" (590mm BSD). The only reason to change is the availability of tyres. While there isn't an abundance of choice, they are still available. Even my local CTC still stocks them, at a reasonable $14.99. You can check the availability at your local CTC, via your computer..
Submitted by FreeLander on Fri, 04/14/2017 - 17:30.
Thanks everyone,
I do love drum brakes, but they're not in the budget for this one. This story has taken a new direction. The stem was frozen so I took it to a vocational school for some heat to free it up. The student got the fork too hot and warped the steerer tube. The fork is not usable. I ended up replacing it with a fork that was drilled for a calliper. That for all the help when I think about drilling the next time. Cheers, Daryl
Thats too bad your fork was damaged. There are lots of good articles on the interwebs about rake, headtube angles and how much trail you should have. From what i have read, lots of older bicycles didnt have it quite right anyways so if you are upgrading the fork it may be worthwhile to do a bit of research to find out what fork would work best.
Putting the wrong fork on, like previously mentioned, can make the bike unstable or give it undesirable handling characteristics.
Submitted by FreeLander on Sun, 04/23/2017 - 07:18.
Thanks. I do need to learn more about fork trail. For now I've chosen a fork that I fitted and looks and fits well. I won't know the handling quality until it is built up. Here's hoping for the best.
Here is link with alternative method for front brake installation
http://vintageccm.com/content/install-hand-brakes
Greg
I would swap out the fork or go with a drum brake. Having the original fork doeant really mean much if you modify it.
Thanks. The swap out fork option sounds reasonable. The wheels are 26 x 1/3" (590). This would mean finding a similar sized fork. Another 590 or maybe even a modem 26". I put a 26" (559) wheel on just to see the difference and there was only about an inch difference (more) fork clearance. Would use 559 on rear as well.
What are you thoughts on option 1: Drilling?
Thanks , Daryl
It depends on the fork crown i guess. Sheldon Brown has info regarding drilling for calipers. Seems pretty straight forward. I would think that if you put a smaller wheel on the caliper may not reach the rim
Installing a different fork, especially one intended for a different wheel size would almost certainly affect the handling. This could turn out to be advantegeous and adverse, depending on the fork and the handling qualities you prefer. As noted, with a smaller wheel, there may also be a brake reach issue. Plus, there is a good chance that you'll have to cut the fork's steerer tube to length and possibly rethread it, to make it fit the current frame and headset. The crown race seat may be a different diameter and incompatible with the CCM headset. Finally, the colour probably won't match.
All things taken into account, drilling the crown of the current fork is likely the simplest solution. Whether I'd be prepared to do this would all depend on the model and condition of the project bicycle.
Regardless, before I started, I'd be taking my proposed wheel and fork combination and measuring the distance from the centre of the rim sidewall, to the location of the proposed brake mounting hole. This is your brake reach and once you know that, you can determine if it is compatible with your proposed brake caliper. Make sure you do this for the rear brake too!
Persoanlly, I'd keep things 26"x 1-3/8" (590mm BSD). The only reason to change is the availability of tyres. While there isn't an abundance of choice, they are still available. Even my local CTC still stocks them, at a reasonable $14.99. You can check the availability at your local CTC, via your computer..
I have seen disc brake adaptes being used on frames and forks that lack the mounts. If you arent set on the front hub you could buy one of those
Go google sturmey archer drum brakes.
They come in front and back, work well, and you don't have to drill anything, or change out your rims.
I got a pair of vintage hand brakes, for a better '' look''.
I put a 3 speed on the back, but Sturmey Archer come in 5 speed as well.
I used a vintage '' quadrent'' shifter to work the 3 speed...
The drum brakes stop om a dime, and work when they're wet, where caliper brakes don't.
Thanks everyone,
I do love drum brakes, but they're not in the budget for this one. This story has taken a new direction. The stem was frozen so I took it to a vocational school for some heat to free it up. The student got the fork too hot and warped the steerer tube. The fork is not usable. I ended up replacing it with a fork that was drilled for a calliper. That for all the help when I think about drilling the next time. Cheers, Daryl
Thats too bad your fork was damaged. There are lots of good articles on the interwebs about rake, headtube angles and how much trail you should have. From what i have read, lots of older bicycles didnt have it quite right anyways so if you are upgrading the fork it may be worthwhile to do a bit of research to find out what fork would work best.
Putting the wrong fork on, like previously mentioned, can make the bike unstable or give it undesirable handling characteristics.
Thanks. I do need to learn more about fork trail. For now I've chosen a fork that I fitted and looks and fits well. I won't know the handling quality until it is built up. Here's hoping for the best.
Cheers,
Daryl